My passage to India

It's almost a year since my return from the Ramamani Iyengar Memorial Yoga Institute, Pune India. I have wanted to put my thoughts, impressions and opinions in writing - this seems as good a spot as any. It has to be said, that the following recollection of the month of October 2007 in Pune is expressed as a personal interpretation of events.
With accolades too many to mention, Mr. Iyengar, with names such as "The Lion of Pune", or "Michelangelo of Yoga", or always referred to as GuruJi, excudes his presence on all levels at the Institute. After a glimpse of him on my first day, it was on Day 2 that I found myself at his feet. Kneeling, I touched the feet, that have been touched by so many before me, then hands to the heart with the palms together, head bowed. I saluted GuruJi and with a softly spoken, 'Namaste' by him I had met the Legend in person.
First in line at the top of the steps outside the asana floor, I saw them at work - all of them, teachers and Guruji's serious pupils with patients; a ramble of bodies with medical and remedial asanas being given under the watchful eye of Geeta and her father. Helpers working with individual sequences to suit the medical malady. At almost 90, here is Mr. Iyengar supervising and helping, intentionally or not, passing on his expertise.The staircase by now is filled to capacity, we get the all clear to wait - yes, some helpers are required to clear and pack away the umpteen wooden props that line the edges of the balcony below the windows. We form a line of students, assistants and organized chaos (so often experienced in India) removes the props into storage areas out of the way.Rumours abound of her ill health and possibilities that she would not even teach. Her women's class has been taught by her sister, Sunita (under the constant scrutiny of her father). By this time we had already missed the regular Monday evening class due to an Indian festival. A class of Prashant, my very first experience of his philosophical teachings behind me, I was soooo ready to meet Geeta on her own turf.

It's Friday evening and a scuffle of activity to get the fans and microphones to work - this means Geeta will be teaching. After last night's pranayama class, I knew that tonight she would move us all beyond our capabilities. The invocation completed - Adho Mukha Virasana, Adho Mukha Svanasana, then Uttanasana. Time for Geeta to organize the room; illness, weakness, menstruation, etc. move to the back of the room doing forward bends. "Tadasana - wake up the sleepy dull mind by taking thighs back, shoulders back, sternum lifting, armpit chest well open, stretching into little finger more". Standing poses followed by Urdhva Mukha Svanasana, Chaturanga Dandasana, Adho Mukha Svanasana - practice shoulder action. (shoulders lift up and back, away from floor) And so we were taken through the class by this supremely talented, kind expert - knowing when to push more and when to let loose.There is something so magical about Geeta's smile, the gestures with her raised hand, the other one on the hip. To make us understand she would use everyday examples, things that everyone can relate to. As in Johannesburg, I hang on her every word, I hear every word and observe every gesture. I get all her jokes and understand every instruction. I obey and learn, my body reacts, responds accordingly and I love every moment of our very short session. Geeta leaves the room as quietly as she arrived - a long wait until we will be treated to her teaching on Monday night.

In between these rituals at the Institute, are many hours of daily self-practice. These are either after Prashant's morning class or between 9 and 12 on other days.

There are 2 factors and considerations when one travels to the Institute. One is India - the other yoga! Although the yoga to some degree is the known aspect, it still presents us/me with challenges that you may not face a home. When practicing at home, my self-discipline ensures a mature, good quality practice - whilst here you are among others and always in the company of Guruji and his family. Whether you like it or not, it adds a degree of self-imposed diligence. If only to avoid disappointing Mr. Iyengar - after all, you may not want to impress him, but you do want to respect his teachings with your practice. Always a little, one morning I found myself almost alone in the asana room with Mr.Iyengar - I greeted him and we went to our respective mats. Mr. Iyengar with the help of some assistants, was setting up for the private remedial classes with an Indian dignitary. As usual dressed in his bright orange shorts, he did some of his own practice. Suddenly I found myself out the way down to Utthita Trikonasana, hand on the ankle as my eyes caught his gaze. I can't remember ever having done a better Trikonasana - and although he has a reputation of being ever-critical and ever-observant he observed. I will never know what must surely have gone through his mind ...! Whilst Mr. Iyengar does his own practice, it may vary but usually the holds are very long.
Soon the room is full and all are going about there practice. Occasional orders and jeers from Guruji as he keeps the attention of his helpers scurrying for props, he works the Indian celebrity body - the Iyengar way!
Initially it felt as if I would never get through the month - if the first week was anything to go by. But somehow the days come and go and some things get easier, even if it's only because of it's familiarity.

The highlight of the trip was without doubt - two-fold; I had met the Legend and his very talented daughter, Geeta. A pity that there are so few classes with this masterful teacher - even less this month because of Diwali and Desara festivals. They did make up for it by doubling up on classes on days when we did not have a scheduled class.

Every part of Geeta's class is meticulously prepared and delivered. Clear, explicit instructions get to the root of the specific part of the body and with direction the movement into the pose follows. This is a voice I would recognize anywhere; one that is laboured as it is distinct. The eyes that see all and a smile that reveals compassion. However harsh the raised voice may appear to the intended wrong-doer - it never malicious. Usually the student at the receiving end had it coming. There is never a time that Geeta is unreasonable in the reproach of the student - and if you thought you could hide amongst the masses of bodies - you were mistaken. Time and again after lengthy, detailed instruction even to the extend of treating us like children (raise your right arm - you all got it - right arm), still some students get it wrong. You are required to be able to think on your feet - know the sequence for menstruation, fever and the like, so you can carry on while others do the class with her.

Last night after 5 days of double classes with back bending , Geeta gave yet another one. Urdhva Dhanurasana and Dwi Pada Viparita Dandasana on and on an endless number of times pushing away from the floor. Then dropping back and coming up from Urdhva Dhanurasana - and then more Viparita Dandasana. And even the long Sarvangasana seemed like a blessing. The back bend madness continued with Prashant the next morning and the week ended with some forward bends and twists.

One day before the festival of Diwali on 19 October, we all took part in the celebration of Patanjali's birthday. All the statues in the Institute draped in flower garlands, the whole Iyengar family present and dressed in rich and colourful attire, the festivities were an inspiring talk by Prashant and then Mr. Iyengar.
Prashant's main focus on Patanjali was on the aspect of 'grammar' - contribution by Patanjali in the first line of the Invocation "vankaranam" - Sanskrit meaning the sounds and meanings of words rather than their grammatic importance. It's inspiring to listen to Prashant, as he very eloquently and passionately spoke of the language of Sanskrit, it's long history and mystical reference in the yoga sutras. Prashant ended by briefly talking about Ayurveda, the yogic science of health. In closing he handed over to Guruji, who spoke briefly about study of the complete awareness of all aspects of the yogic practice.

Diwali brought 5 days of rest and reflection and although a tremendous amount of noise with fireworks, we did get some rest. Diwali with all this activity and dust, there are some aspects of these festivals and India that are exceptional. The candle light in tiny bowls outside front doors, some are ornately decorated in vibrant rangolis, others a single tiny light in front of very humble shacks. An unexpected and heavy downpour washes away the weeks of dust and dirt, turning the roads into rivers - making a clean slate for the last week.

Mr.Iyengar, father, guru to some, teacher to many thousands and inspiration to many more. Geeta, the daughter, teacher to many, a driving force unhindered by her medical restrictions that clearly plagues her body, emerging from the Light of her father as a teacher far greater than many realize or are willing to acknowledge. Geeta holds it all together as the younger Iyengars are primed for the future. And there is Prashant, son and brother, teacher to so many, lateral pragmatic thinker and philosopher that adds a very evolutionary touch to and plays a most vital role in this trilogy of Masters.

It is my opinion as a novice teacher, that students coming to Iyengar yoga from now on will have the best of all three worlds - and if guided to explore all aspects of this trilogy, practice and teach with the aim to bring together and understand these aspects, this style of yoga will continue to grow and evolve. As Mr. Iyengar as endured through the years, and has brought forward his son and daughter to add clarity and understanding of his work, so we too must continue to understand the whole subject of body,mind and breath.

As for India, you have to admire these industrious people - crammed together everywhere, in buses, on bicylces, mopeds and rickshaws, trucks of all sizes carry goods and people. The pavements overflow with a contrasting stream of these small, colourful and drab, friendly and intensely spiritual. Disabled beggars, acrobatic trios of filthy street children, sadus and street merchants selling cups of chai, fruit or instant hot meals. Idols of varying faiths abound in these dusty streets, time is given to honour and adourn the shrines, temples and it's worshippers. Never did I hear an angry word or gesture thoughout this past month - two lanes of traffic become 4 or 5 depending on the size of the vehicle, as traffic lights and laws serve as a guide, to be ammended/adapted to suit the occasion or situation. Umteen narrow-misses and never a scratch as the mass of motorized transport gets on with it on pot-holed roads of Pune. I am still not sure who has the right of way, except when passing an elephant and his mahoot collecting rupees, he definitley takes over the road. The chaos and pollution aside, the streets, alleys and neigbourhoods make up this crowded Indian city and this Indian experience.